Wednesday 21 June 2017

0029 Broome


17th – 20th June 2017
Cable Beach, helicopters, sunsets, and camels !

Tony measures out his parking space !
Originally we had only scheduled a couple of days in Broome, but we got there a couple of days earlier than expected, and the camp site wasn’t booked out, so we managed to have a good few days break from driving.   And a chance to look for a few spare parts and get oil changes done.   We had set up in the dark last night, so once we had everything properly sorted out, we headed into Broome to check out the action.  When parking we found out one of Jos and Tony’s “quirks” – Jos likes to park exactly between the lines, so Tony, being Tony, often parks
Hawk in the tree on Cable Beach
crooked in order to annoy Jos !   On this instance he reckoned he parked straight, but Jos wasn’t sure, so Tony pulled out his tape measure that he carries ONLY for this purpose, and measured the distance from his wheels to the white lines !!   I won’t say who was correct, but needless to say, Janet & I were in fits of laughter as we watched Tony (in a crowded parking lot) measuring up his car to make sure it was straight !!



Broome markets
Once the car was parked we went in to the Saturday morning markets, and enjoyed a wander round, looking to see if this market had anything different from any other markets around Australia.  Answer – Not really !  Same old jewelry, T shirts, leather belts, massage oils etc !  But they did have some different food stalls, and Janet & I enjoyed some kind of Philippine spicy roll, which was so good we went back for two more !  After a quick drive around town, we found a camping store for Tony to find a spare part for his caravan loo, had a quick walk at Cable beach, and then headed back to the campsite.

Camels heading down to the beach
Cable Beach sunset
We were surprised to see all the camels being taken to the beach on the road right beside our vans – I suppose they have to get there somehow !  The big thing about Broome is Cable Beach at sunset, and its camel rides, so that first evening saw us pile into Tony’s truck and head down to the
Pizza and a beer as we watch the sunset
beach well before sunset.  Once there, we found a spot in a bar on the edge of the beach, and settled in with a couple of beers to wait for the sun to go down.  Lots of people on the beach, and even in their cars – You can drive down and go north in your 4WD !  We ended up eating a delicious pizza there, and watching the sun go down over the sea – Some clouds made for a beautiful evening sky, and it was very relaxing to sit there sipping on a cold beer, and knowing we didn’t have to pack up ad hit the road again tomorrow !!

Camel gives its supercilious look !
Tony, Jos and Janet had booked camel rides for the next day at sunset – I am really not into camel rides – Having lived in the Middle East for so long, I guess I am just used to seeing them, and don’t find them too exotic at all. Bit like llamas – All they do is spit at you !!  And we were once told that their supercilious look is supposedly because man only knows 99 different names for Allah, but the camel knows all 100, so feels he is more important than any human !!  Anyway, during the day we did a bit of shopping, and while in Repco autoparts store I found a small 80 amp folding solar panel that was half price, and small enough to fit inside Troopie when not in use.  I have been thinking about a small solar panel for some time, but just balked at the size of them because it would be just one more thing that had to be loaded and unloaded every night.  But this panel rolls up and fits in a locker, so when not in use it doesn’t get in the way.  And 80 watts is just enough to keep my battery charged when we stop in a place for a few days, like now in Broome.  So pleased with that purchase.

Driving onto Cable Beach
After a lazy afternoon in the camp site, we headed down to Cable Beach for the 4 pm appointment with the camels.  The camels are not on the Cable Beach in front of the resort as I had imagined, but are organized on the northern section, where you can also take your car.  So we drove down onto the beach, wove our way through the rocks, and out to the long northern beach that stretches out as far as the eye can see.  There were already quite of lot of cars parked on the beach with people sitting out, enjoying a few beers, watching the camels and waiting for sunset.

Heading off up the beach
First of all was the obligatory Safety talk, and then everyone was loaded up one by one, so it takes 15 or 20 minutes.  A new item that has just been introduced is a camel loading platform which means the camels do not have to get down and up so many times a day.  It takes away a bit of the fun of getting started, but apparently is good for the camels, so I guess that is fair enough.  Once everyone was loaded, the train of about 15 camels headed off down the beach, with some people looking decidedly more comfortable on their camels than others, as they tried to master the rocking gait. 

Cameling down Cable Beach
I was chief photographer, and Tony had entrusted me with his new 4WD, so I would drive down the beach a little way, then take photos as they passed me – Meanwhile being able to sip on a cold beer while I was waiting (Tony has a fully stocked fridge in the back of the 4WD !!).   After a while, I waited in one place for them to come back – the ride is an hour – 30 minutes up the beach and then back.  As they returned, the sun was starting to go down, and I was trying to get photos of the camels in the sunset.  But by this time there were SO many cars on the beach, it is really hard to get a photo without 100 cars and people all being in the background !  Anyway, they all had a wonderful ride, and apart from Janet falling down the steps off the unloading platform when her knee gave way, they were all smiling !

Sunset on Cable Beach
Workboats in sunset
We then stayed on the beach as the sun came down, enjoying the moment with a drink, and chatting to other people on the beach.  It really is a lovely spot, and it was interesting to see that there were a couple of oil rig workboats tied up out on the ocean, and caught in the sunset.  Having been in the oilfield all my life, these uniquely shaped work boats bring back many memories for me, and now with our son Damien working offshore on the oil rigs right here out of Broome, it was especially thought provoking for me.  Anyway, after the sun had well and truly gone down, we drove off the beach and headed back to the camp site for dinner and bed.   Top day.

Oysters in their rope cages
The next day we all jumped into Tony’s 4WD again and headed out to Willie Creek Pearl Farm, some 30 minutes or so north of Broome, down sandy trails.  It seemed as though we were headed into nowhere, until we suddenly arrived at the Farm, and found a lovely facility with a great little restaurant and, of course, a shop selling pearls !!  We had morning tea and cake (a McAlister habit every morning !), and then started our tour.  We had a very informative hour or so while we were told in detail about how they farm the oysters,
Pearl in the oyster
and what is special about Broome pearls, and they even opened some to show us how it is done – And one of them had a large pearl in there !  Even the tour guide was surprised as he said it is quite rare to find such a big one !  And of course all the ladies were enjoying holding them in their hands – All except one lady who is so allergic to shellfish that she can’t even handle pearls !! (Lucky husband !!)

After the talk, we were provided with more refreshments before we went down across the sand and through the mangroves to a little boat, and were taken out to show how they farm the oysters.  It is a very labour intensive operation, as there are various worms and parasites that can attack the oysters, either killing them or just damaging the pearl, so the rope racks in which they are suspended in
Willie Creek Pearl lagoon
the water have to be raised quite frequently so they can be cleaned or barnacles, and inspected.  No wonder pearls are so expensive !   There is even a crocodile that lives in this lagoon, who we spotted in the distance, so one has other things to worry about while cleaning or collecting the oysters !!




Lunch at Willie Creek
After we returned to shore, we all gathered in the shop where very expensive pearls were hung around the necks of several of the women in an attempt to sell them !   ( Yes, Janet did buy herself one !!)   Afterwards, we stayed and had a leisurely lunch in the restaurant before heading back to the campsite. 




Arrivals board for D's chopper
The next morning we had a couple of appointments.  First of all Tony was getting an oil change done on his 4WD, so I went with him for that.  Then, purely by chance, son Damien was due to crew change today – He works 28 days on, 28 days off, and we just happened to be in Broome at the time of his crew change !  He gets about 3 hours between when his helicopter arrives in Broome, and his flight leaves to take him back to Perth, so we planned to meet him and then have a quick lunch.   With only 4 seats in the car, we dropped Jos & Tony at a restaurant and then took their car over to the helicopter
Video of D's chopper arriving
base.  Sure enough, his flight in from Ensco 5006 rig was due at 11.32, and we went out to watch him land.  This was REALLY evocative for me because way, way back in Dubai, when Damien was about 1 year old, Janet used to bring him to the airport to watch me come in on my chopper from the rig – And it was the same chopper company – Bristows !!  So I have to admit I was quite excited to have this opportunity to be in Broome and see him come in !!  Eventually he landed and came out of the terminal (a lot more procedures 

nowadays – we used to just walk out of the hangar !!), and after a brief chat, we headed off for lunch.
Click here to see video.  https://goo.gl/photos/mAmyJdEQk3iggtuk6                                               

Lunch with D before he headed home
We passed a very pleasant hour or so catching up with Damien, but another interesting thing came to light at the restaurant.  Phone service and wifi is TERRIBLE in outback Australia – Even in a camp site in a little village in the Andes, they have wifi !  I asked the waitress for the restaurant’s wifi password and she just laughed – “This is Broome – no restaurants have wifi” !!  In Australia you carry your own dongle, or you don’t have wifi !   Which is why this blog is so late getting posted – I had it all written, but basically we haven’t seen any wifi in campsites anywhere since we left home !

After lunch, we dropped Damien at the airport for him to catch his flight to Perth for his month off, and then we went back to the camp site to prepare for our departure the next morning. We packed up as much as we could the night before, because we had to be at the Toyota dealer by 8 am for an oil change ourselves.  We made it, had a bit of an expensive oil change (Broome prices ?), and after a few hiccups with the car, we finally headed out of Broome.  Tony and Jos were heading home on the black top, but we were headed to derby and the Gibb River (dirt) road.  Had a great time in Broome – Now it is time to head towards home.

Rest of the photos are here :-  https://goo.gl/photos/tFznpJ4ukRQWeb2R9

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